Bryan January 18th, 2008
This is one of my favorite sessions. It’s a joint presentation of pastor, author, and nature photographer Chuck Summers and nature photographer, author and Christ follower Ken Jenkins. These sessions are almost always the most difficult to describe because the content is almost exclusively unpublished photos they each have taken of the course of their respective careers.
As Ken points out, it only makes sense when talking about creation to also talk about the creator. Ken’s style is to select a few photographs and make some comments and observation on each one. Ken is extremely insightful and probably should be a pastor.
Chuck’s style is to make a series of opening comments and display his photographs to music. The titles were "White as Snow", "Look Deeper", and "Love" (set to the contemporary Christian song "Testify to Love"). Chuck’s new book just recently came out. It’s called Kentucky Unbridled Spirit and Beauty. I haven’t gotten it yet, but I enjoyed his previous works and am sure this will be a great one to add to my collection.
Bryan January 17th, 2008
The Civilian Conservation Corps (or CCC) was instituted in 1933 by President Franklin Roosevelt to restore hope to America’s youth. The United States was in the midst of the Great Depression and suffered with 25% unemployment. Many had simply lost all hope.
From inception to completion, nearly 3 million young men served in the CCC on projects around the country related to forestry, soil conversation, and flood and fire control. The commitment was 6 months to 2 years for any 18 to 24 year old male U.S. citizen for $30 per month. $25 per month was sent to the family.
The men of the CCC were also encouraged (but not required) to learn a trade and locally experienced men were hired to train them and supervise them back at camp. One request of FDR shows that partisan politics is not new to this era. FDR insisted that, where possible, all supervisors would be Democrats. Since that was a problem in the Smokies (not many Democrats here during those days), the supervisors were sternly warned not to discuss their political affiliation with the CCC men.
Interesting tidbits
- Camp David in Maryland was a CCC camp
- The Sugerlands CCC camp in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park was converted to a conscientious objector camp during World War II
- Some famous CCC camp alumni include Raymond Burr, Robert Mitchum and Frank Sinatra
- CCC constructed trails, planted trees, built bridges (the one at Sugarlands is still in use) and cut magnificent stone work along the roads in the Smokies as well as along the Blue Ridge Parkway.
- There were 77 CCC camps in Tennessee where 70,000 young men served.
Bryan’s opinions
The CCC was one of the few good New Deal programs that FDR implemented. Here are the reasons why
- Only the best New Deal programs don’t exist anymore. The CCC ended in 1942 with its objective complete (hope restored amongst American youth and unemployment was largely improved). Unfortunately, only the most wretched of New Deal programs survive to this day (namely the TVA and Social Security)
- The young men were required to work for their keep and provided great service. Their fingerprints are all over the national parks and forests and state parks here in Tennessee.
- Local men were employed to supervise the camps, thus helping the local economy.
Bryan January 16th, 2008
Well, I can’t say anything else about my super guides Frank Carter and John Burgess, my guides for this off trail hike through the Ash Hopper Branch and Spring Branch drainages.
I’d been through the first half of this hike before with these guys about 3 years ago. We came running down the Ash Hopper Branch drainage escaping the falling trees from a freak wind storm. That day three years ago, we heard trees snapping off like twigs and actually watched one slide to rest and explode just 100 feet behind us. Who says hiking isn’t exciting?
Distance: posted at 6 miles, but by GPS and pedometer our group figured it at about 3.8 miles
Total Elevation climb: I didn’t record it
Trail Type: single track dirt and manways, but mostly off-trail
Temperature: 30s, cloudy
Time: I didn’t record it
Significant Features: old homesteads and a still standing rock chimney
Started out on the Husky Gap Trail, but quickly left it trudging off trail. I should mention that this is not something I normally do or encourage anyone else to do. Frank and John are very familiar with the area. It would be very easy for me to get lost out here.
We hiked past some old homesteads and some of the park’s hog traps. Russian hogs run around in the park now. Prior to the park’s formation, a portion had been used as a private hunting ground. Once the caretaker stopped getting paid, he left to find the owners and collect his pay. The year was 1929 and when he found the owners, they had no money to pay him. These non-native hogs run lose today in the park and rangers try to trap them. One of the three traps we saw had a small piglet (or hoglet?) dead from being there a long time.
After a LONG ciimb we got to the Ash Hopper Branch drainage where we stopped for lunch at an old homesite. Since it was still chilly, we didn’t tarry long. After another climb we ended up in the Spring Branch drainage where we found a chimney still standing. These are unusual as most in the park have fallen over (or been pushed over) in the 70 years since the park was formed.
Just a little ways (really, it wasn’t a fir piece at all) and we were out on Little River Road. Overall a nice hike and better than any day I’ve spent in the office.
Pictures are HERE
Bryan January 15th, 2008
Today, I had the great pleasure of hiking again with Tom Morton. Tom knows these mountains and hollows like the back of his hand. He’s a wonderful story-teller and an all around great human being. Once again, take advantage of hiking with the locals when you get the opportunity.
Distance: about 6 miles
Total Elevation climb: I didn’t record it
Trail Type: single track dirt and manways, but mostly off-trail
Temperature: 30s, cloudy
Time: I didn’t record it
Significant Features: Courthouse Rock and Quilliam’s Cave
It was a chilly morning as we drove up Newfound Gap Road to the trailhead. The wind whipped and I was wondering if I needed another layer. The climb soon put an end to that worry.
I finally made it to Courthouse Rock. Last year, my group aborted our trip there due to transportation issues. The rock itself is huge, probably 50-60 feet high. I walked around it and would have loved to spend a few minutes climbing it, but alas, time to move on.
We took off up an old manway. When it ended, we started scrambling over trees and blowdowns to get up to Quilliams’s Cave. The snow that dusted the area gave it such a great feeling. The ice formations on the cave were a real treat. The picture above is of ice on a gnarled stump just outside the cave. It’s not really a cave though. It’s more of a large outcropping, going back about 20 feet. We stopped and ate lunch there and then headed back.
Both destinations are must sees in the Smokies!
On the way down, I got a nice snapshot of Bullhead Mountain dusted with snow.
Pictures are HERE
Bryan January 14th, 2008
I always enjoy hikes with John Burgess and Frank Carter. They both hike regularly with the Retired Citizens of the Smokies and do their research into the areas where they lead. They are a great couple of guys.
Distance: about 5 miles one way
Total Elevation climb: I didn’t record it
Trail Type: single track dirt, but mostly off-trail
Temperature: 40s, cloudy
Time: I didn’t record it
Significant Features: the walk through Meigs Valley and the Old Elkmont settlement
This hike starts on the Sugerland Mountain Trail at the Laurel Falls Parking Lot and ascends for about a mile where it turns down an old manway into Meigs Valley. There were several creek crossings, but no one fell in. The walk through the valley was gorgeous, and an easy walk for off trail.
We stopped for lunch at the Elkmont Campground, then explored the old settlement of Elkmont and the remains of the old Wonderland Hotel. When the park was formed, the residents of Elkmont were allowed lifetime leases to live on their property. The last of those folks he passed away now, and there has been quite a bit of controversy over the fate of the settlement. It appears the Park Service will destroy all but a few of the cabins there. The Wonderland Hotel is already demolished.
Then we took a bit of time in the Old Elkmont Cemetery where the large number of children buried there are an indication of the harshness of mountain life. Several never survived their first day.
The short return to the beginning was a nice stroll. Take the chance to hike with John and Frank if you get it.
Pictures are HERE
Bryan January 13th, 2008
I decided for my first full day to test out my new boots and do something on my own. I flipped through my day hikes book and found this one, an eight mile round trip from the Sugarlands Visitor’s Center.
Distance: about 8 miles round trip
Total Elevation climb: about 1200 feet
Trail Type: sections of single track dirt and gravel horse trail
Temperature: 40s, cloudy
Time: 1:30 moving uphill, 1:00 moving downhill
Significant Features: the crick
I chose this hike because it was threatening rain for the afternoon. I had intended to turn around after about 2 miles, but found out the rain was holding off. I hiked the whole thing, all the way up to the Rainbow Falls Trailhead. I ate lunch there and then headed back. The trail is a steady climb up from Sugarlands, so be ready. A little rain did start to fall and I was a bit concerned about getting caught in a downpour, so I didn’t find the old school, CCC camp or cemetery along the trail.
Overall a nice warm up hike that is easily accessible.
Pictures are HERE
Bryan January 12th, 2008
Got here Saturday afternoon and this is the first time I’ve had to blog. This is the second year I’ll be blogging my experience from the foothills of the Great Smoky Mountains. For 18 years now, Wildlife Wilderness Week attracts experts in wildlife and wilderness to Pigeon Forge, TN for a week of presentations and hiking. If you’re ever looking for something to do in mid-January, I highly recommend it. This is my 4th year here, so I obviously enjoy it. Thanks to the City of Pigeon Forge and the sponsors and volunteers for this wonderful event.
Stay tuned for daily updates…. hopefully… if I’m not out on a trail somewhere. 
Bryan January 21st, 2007
I can’t believe Wilderness Wildlife Week 2007 is already over. I actually was hoping to get snowed in, but alas, no snow.
At times, there are 3 or 4 presentations going on simultaneously and at least 4 hikes most days, all requiring varying skill levels. What I noted here was just a sampling.
Remember to save January 12-20, 2008 for Wilderness Wildlife Week 2008. Check back at Pigeon Forge’s website for more information. You can also contact the Music Road Hotel to make reservations starting February 1, 2007. I’ve already marked my vacation calendar.
Bryan January 20th, 2007
On this finale evening, presenting are Doug Mills and Bill Landry of the Heartland Series. I would consider this the rough equivalent to Tennessee Crossroads here in middle Tennessee.
Interesting notes from Doug’s presentation:
Book on Mountaintop Removal: Lost Mountain by Eric Reese
Logging Company artifacts remain. Don’t attempt to find this but here are the directions (take the Thorney Creek trail from Clingman’s Dome. Look for an old logging road about mile down.)
Freshwater jellyfish exist and appear in Fontana Lake
Bill Landry, the host presented a few clips, including one of him grabblin’ for catfish. Bill also mentioned an action group called Save Chilhowee Mountain that is acting to stop development and protect the watershed into the Great Smoky Mountains National Park
Bryan January 20th, 2007
Bert Kunze presented a talk and slide show about his trip hiking the John Muir Trail. For those of you unfamiliar, the JMT (not the one in Big South Fork) runs 216 miles between the Yosemite Valley and Mt. Whitney (at close to 15,0000 ft, the highest peak in the contiguous United States).
The most interesting point was his bear repellent. <GROSS Comments>Warning, it gets a little gross right here. He collected his urine throughout the day. At night, he sprinkled it around his bear proof cannister and in a circle around his camp site. He has a picture showing a bear approaching his camp, but it went away. Later he heard that a bear had decimated a camp across the river and he assumed it was the same one. For your information ladies, he says this only works for a male’s urine.</GROSS Comment>
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